I have just returned from a tour of Cambodia which is a country of extremes: extremes of wealth and poverty, a landscape that is at one moment, flat with endless kilometres of watery paddy fields dotted with hard working farmers and in the next moment, undulating hills with dense mosquito infested undergrowth: palm trees with leaves as big as a umbrellas and ferns whose tiny fronz unfurl into giant green fingers: tourist destinations like Siem Reap and Phnom Penh with their h